Like anything, preparation is the key. The better the prep work is the better your lawn will look. Firstly, take off the existing lawn, either by spade or by a lawn stripper. Then you can fork the ground over, or if you prefer use a rotavator . Try to get all the weeds, roots, and large stones cleared away then rake over the soil. If the soil is too light and fluffy you can walk over the soil taking little steps to firm it down then rake over again. You may wish to spread some loam over the soil which will give the turf a very good start.

We usually say ringing is the easiest way. You can email your details then we can ring you back. We usually only require 2-3 days notice for deliveries, in busier times (Spring and Autumn) it can sometimes be up to a week. If you only require small quantities (1-10 rolls) its worth giving us a call as we often keep small amounts in stock ready for collection that day.

They measure 61cm x 164cm (one square metre). The thickness of the soil is about 25mm, so that will give you an idea if you are laying the turf up to slabs or an edging and want to know how much lower to leave the soil.

Once the turf has been delivered it should be laid the same day or the next day. The quicker the turf is laid the better. If the turf is rolled up for too long it will start to turn yellow and therefor take longer to establish.

Within the first hour of the turf being laid, then everyday, morning and evening (if it hasn’t rained of course). Once the turf has established you can stop the watering.

Check that it has rooted and cannot be pulled up, usually takes 2 to 3 weeks, then you can run the mower over it. Only take a little bit of the top for the first cut then gradually lower the blades each time.

To ensure your lawn has the best possible start it is important to carry out several steps to prepare the soil on which the turf will be laid. We recommend completing the following steps at least 2 weeks before your turf arrives.

  • All existing vegetation should be killed using a glyphosate non-selective systemic herbicide, e.g. Roundup, carefully follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Once all vegetation is dead (around 2 weeks) the area can be cleared and the ground prepared ready to lay the turf.
  • The soil should be cultivated to about 6” or 15cm, to aerate the soil and minimise compaction. If the soil is very heavy mix in coarse sand or top soil to help drainage.
  • Clear any stones and debris, then rake to produce a smooth level surface.
  • Lightly roll or tread to produce a firm base on which to lay the turf.
  • Although not essential we recommend a light dressing of fertiliser to aid growth, following manufacturer’s instructions.

Once your soil is prepared and the turf has been delivered you are ready to lay.

The most important thing to remember is turf must always be laid within 24 hours in Autumn/Winter and immediately in the Spring/Summer months.

Using the following steps even the novice gardener should be able to lay our turf, however if you require professional assistance call us at Medler Turf to discuss your installation requirements 01603 754783

  • Start along the longest, straightest edge of the lawn area. Unrolling strip by strip ensuring that the underside of the turf has full contact with the soil.
  • Lay the next strip from the opposite end and continue to work across the lawn in this manner producing a pattern similar to brickwork.
  • Overlap the turf at row ends and cut neatly with a sharp knife or half moon lawn cutter. Avoid using small pieces of turf as these can dry out. Don’t overstretch the turf.
  • To avoid gaps water the turf immediately after installation and for the first 5 days.

Note: Never walk directly on the prepared soil or newly laid turf, always use boards or planks.

Once your lawn has established a yearly maintenance routine will keep it looking its best for years to come.


  • Keep off the lawn in very wet or frosty conditions.
  • Keep a lookout for diseases.
  • Begin the lawn care season by spreading worm casts, when they are dry, with a light brush.
  • Keep the lawn free of debris (leaves, etc).
  • The first cut should only take the top off the grass.
  • If moss is a problem, deal with it straight away using a proprietary moss killer or lawn sand.
  • Repair/tidy lawn edges with a half moon edging iron.


  • Use a slow release lawn feed and apply a lawn weed killer to the lawn in warm weather.
  • Cutting will become more frequent but don’t cut lower than 1½” (4cm).
  • Dig out coarse grasses and fill holes with soil, before re-turfing or seeding.


  • Cut at least once a week in May but never lower than 1” (2½cm)
  • Control weeds with a selective weed killer
  • Water during dry spells.


  • Cut lawn twice a week.
  • During long dry spells raise the height of cut.
  • Spot treat any weeds.
  • Apply Spring Summer Fertiliser to replace lost nutrients from clippings.
  • It is a good idea to spike the surface with a fork before watering
  • August is the last effective month for weed control.


  • Raise height of mower by ¼” (0.5 cm) and decrease the number of cuts, mowing only when needed.
  • Scarify, spike and top dress the lawn, then overseed if necessary (heavy soil : 80% coarse sand and 20% sifted soil, light soil : 60% coarse sand 40% sifted soil).
  • Spring Summer Fertiliser should be applied at the manufacturer’s recommendations.
  • At the first signs of fungal attack (Fusarium or Red Thread) apply a fungicide at the manufacturer’s recommended rate.
  • Keep the lawn clear of any debris.
  • October is the ideal month to turf any new or damaged areas.


  • In November give the lawn one final cut if weather permits.
  • Keep the lawn clear of any debris.
  • Keep off the lawn in frosty and wet weather.

The growth of mushrooms and fungi are a naturally occurring phenomenon in newly turfed lawns.

The mushroom/fungal spores occur naturally in your soil. When ground is prepared for turf it agitates and brings spores to the surface. When you lay your turf you create a dark shaded environment between the soil and turf then when you are watering on a daily basis you create the damp humid conditions the mushroom/fungal spores need to grow and hence they appear as if from nowhere.

Once you start to cut the new lawn on a regular basis and stop watering the mushrooms/fungi will disappear just as quickly as they appeared because the ground conditions will return to normal.

If you are desperate to get rid of any naturally occurring mushrooms/fungal growth a treatment with a high nitrogen granular fertiliser will shock the spores and in most cases cease the growth any further.

High nitrogen granulated fertiliser is available at any local garden centre.